要长寿吃鱼肉?这些致癌毒素被忽视了,4招规避健康风险,首选小鱼!
“要健康,喝鱼汤;要长寿,吃鱼肉”。
在大部分人的认知中,鱼几乎等同于健康与长寿。然而,如果告诉你好吃又健康的鱼中隐藏着看不见的毒素,你还敢吃吗?

鱼类的营养价值和健康益处大家都知道,就不再赘述,来聊一聊另一个常被忽视的问题——鱼类体内的有毒物质,包括但不限于:
汞
重金属汞主要通过大气沉降、工业废水排放、土壤侵蚀等途径进入水体,并在水体中被微生物转化为毒性更强的甲基汞。
甲基汞先是被小型水生生物吸收,随着食物链富集在大鱼体内[1],最终进入人体。人体内大约77.8%的汞都来自鱼类与贝类[2]。

摄入这些鱼后,甲基汞会进入血液循环对中枢神经系统造成损害,引发多种神经系统疾病,还会损伤肾脏[3-5]。
此外,汞还会影响胎儿发育,因此美国食品药品管理局(FDA)与美国环境保护署(EPA)建议孕妇吃鱼的同时,又强调每周摄入低汞鱼的量最好不要超过8-12盎司(约227~340克)[6]。
多氯联苯(PCB)
多氯联苯(PCB)是209种人工合成化学物质总称,曾广泛用于电气等行业中。因其毒性高、不易分解等特点,于上世纪70-80年代陆续被各国禁用[7]。
尽管PCB已经停产几十年,但由于其出色的化学稳定性与持久性,至今仍能在全球范围内的大气、水体和土壤中发现它的身影,并通过食物链在鱼类等水生生物体内富集[8]。
如果吃鱼太多导致PCB在体内积累,一系列健康问题都会找上门来,包含但不限于癌症、免疫系统功能障碍、心血管疾病等[9-11]。
2016年,PCB正式被世卫组织下属的国际癌症研究中心(IARC)认证为危险等级最高的一类致癌物质[12]。
二噁英
剧毒化学物质二噁英,是废物焚烧和化学制造等工业过程的副产物,被称为“世纪之毒”。二噁英进入环境后依然是通过食物链在鱼类体内聚积,特别是在某些鱼类的脂肪组织中[13,14]。
因为二噁英毒性太过强烈,美国环境保护署对鱼类中二噁英的安全含量设定了极为严格的标准,仅为0.00000003 ppm,而FDA对鱼类中甲基汞含量的限值为1 ppm[15],比二噁英高了3000万倍不止,二噁英的毒性可见一斑。
接触高浓度的二噁英会对人体健康造成严重威胁,导致癌症,生殖、免疫、神经、内分泌系统疾病,糖尿病等[16-18]。
农药
除草剂、杀虫剂等农药是水体污染的主要来源之一,鱼类通过食物、水等途径接触到农药,而后传递给食用鱼的人类。
研究表明,接触农药会增加人类患癌症、生殖问题、抑郁症、神经系统缺陷、糖尿病、呼吸系统等疾病风险[19]。
塑料
鱼类体内含有塑料的情况非常普遍。在一项中国研究中,选取了21种海洋鱼和6种淡水鱼类,调查结果显示所有种类的鱼体内都发现了微塑料(5mm以下)或中塑料(大于5mm)。在26个品种的鱼类中,55.9%-92.3%的个体能够被检出微塑料[20]。
食用含有塑料的鱼类,会对人体健康造成危险,引发炎症、氧化应激、基因毒性、组织损伤、细胞毒性、神经毒性、免疫系统破坏和致癌等风险[21]。

一方面,吃鱼有许多健康益处;另一方面,鱼体内含有诸多有毒物质。这鱼还能不能吃了?
答案非常明显,看官方态度就明白了。无论是《中国居民膳食指南》还是《美国膳食指南》,都建议每周摄入适量鱼肉,总不能是想毒死我们吧?
因为综合考量下来,即使鱼类可能含有毒素,吃鱼依然是利大于弊。
1)健康益处>潜在风险
一说到毒物,不说剂量都是耍流氓。
以汞为例,尽管甲基汞水平高可能会增加心血管疾病风险,但研究表明,适量食用鱼类的人群即使心血管疾病风险因为汞略有所升高,但仍然低于不吃鱼的人群[22,23]。
另外一项研究结果显示,如果10万人每周吃两次养殖鲑鱼,坚持70年,那么他们通过吃鱼摄入的PCB,可能会使其中24人死于癌症,但吃鱼可以防止其中至少7000人死于心脏病[24]。
综上,适量食用鱼类的话,健康益处能够抵消风险。
2)逃脱不了的毒素
一项美国研究调查了110种食物中二噁英的浓度,结果显示淡水鱼中二噁英含量最高,其次是黄油,再往后海鱼、肉类(牛肉、鸡肉等)、乳制品、鸡蛋中的含量相差不大,果蔬等含量最低[25]。
在一项中国研究中,食物中PCB含量从高到低依次为鱼类>鸡蛋>鸡肉>牛肉>羊肉>鸭肉>猪肉>奶粉>植物油>谷物>果蔬[26]。

虽然这些研究大多只针对某一种有毒物质,但却揭示了一个现实:鱼类体内的有毒物质只是环境污染的缩影,只要摄入食物,或多或少会摄入一定量毒素。
既然都有毒,为什么不选择健康益处相对更大的鱼呢?
虽然都是吃鱼,但要想吃到毒素最少的鱼,获取最大的健康益处,还是有一些讲究的。
1)看种类
不要吃鲨鱼、剑鱼、金枪鱼等寿命较长,且在食物链中处于较高地位的鱼,因为它们体内会积累更多毒素[27]。
而它们的对照组,虾、三文鱼、鲶鱼、沙丁鱼等鱼或海产品,则因为体内含汞水平较低,被FDA推荐给孕妇食用。
此外,爱吃鱼的朋友不要总是吃同一种鱼,最好是不同种类换着来,避免单一污染物的累积,减少健康风险。
2)看体型
多吃小鱼而非大鱼,这当然不是因为小鱼连骨带内脏一起吃可以带来钙、镁、维生素A、维生素D等更多微量营养元素[28],也不是因为小鱼更加便宜,主要原因同上,小鱼体内污染物含量更少[29]。
一项8万多人的日本大型队列研究显示,女性每月摄入1-3次小鱼,全因死亡率降低32%;每周摄入1-2次,全因死亡率降低28%;每周摄入≥3次,全因死亡率降低31%;癌症死亡率分别降低28%、29%和36%[30]。
3)看脂肪
前文说过,PCB等污染物倾向于聚集在鱼类的脂肪组织中,因此脂肪含量高的鱼(如三文鱼)中污染物浓度可能更高,而瘦肉型鱼类污染物含量相对较低。
4)看来源
一个烫知识:在干净水体中长大的鱼,体内污染物含量较低。之所以这个选鱼标准放到最后,是因为这很难直观看出来,毕竟阳澄湖大闸蟹都可能是过水蟹。但起码有一点,钓鱼佬们在小河沟里钓的鱼,发发朋友圈就算了,就别带回家吃了。
时光派点评
万万没想到,看似健康的鱼肉中竟然有如此多剧毒污染物。
但转念一想,生活在这样一个世界中,每天呼吸含PM2.5的新鲜空气,穿拼多多好评返现的C类聚酯纤维衣服,享受毫无锅气的预制菜美味,鱼肉这点问题似乎也不算什么了。
当然只是开个玩笑,日子总要过下去,与其过分焦虑,不如学会理性选择和规避风险,比如选择毒素更少的鱼类、注重饮食多样化并适量摄入,就能在享受鱼类的同时,最大限度降低健康风险。
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